Tamiya's clear red is nice, but due to the stuff in the paint you will also probably need a mask, and as others have mentioned, X20A thinner. Probably best to use a mask anyway, though.
I've used both Tamiyas and the FW clears and I much prefer the latter, to be honest. They go on easily if you thin them properly. Usually 7+ very thin coats will do if it's thinned right, and will apply with very smooth consistency. Don't rush it and try and hold the airbrush over one spot for too long, because it pools easily (as do the Tamiya clears). Always keep the airbrush moving. Best to work in batches and/or sub-assemblies so you can apply a coat to a model, put it down, do the next, move back, etc. Can speed this up with a hair-dryer if you're not doing batches (think 1 vehicle, for example), but don't hold the hair-dryer too close or on too high a setting or it will move paint.
Last point would be to recommend you apply your metallic pre-shades with an airbrush as well. Vallejo has great metallics for this. Don't use the old rub'n'buff schemes. They're applied via brush, and then when you apply the clear via airbrush you'll find it doesn't apply consistently or easily to the same places. Rub'n'buff is also really hard on brushes. Golds will give you a more vibrant red, silvers a colder one.